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"They can produce a fine wine, but that wine should not be allowed to be called icewine," Paszkowski said.

Canada is a major player in the international market for icewine, thanks to a reliably cold climate.

In regulations published this week, the Canadian government said any bottle labeled and sold as icewine must be made only from grapes that have frozen on the vine.

In China, where icewine has become hugely popular, a thriving counterfeit industry is flooding the market with wines that don't live up to the label, he said.

Ontario already had rules on what constitutes icewine, but the changes apply across Canada.