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At Kulture, Davis gives a rotating group of young Black chefs a place to iterate on classic dishes like oxtail ragout, fried fish fillets and johnnycakes.

“Here you go,” said one of them, reaching out a hand and offering him johnnycake.

She turned back to the stove and flipped the johnnycakes.

There are also shrimp that have been grilled with their heads and shells on, placed over johnnycakes and splashed with spiced piri-piri sauce.

That evening, those in attendance made quick work of the freshly fried walleye, hot johnnycakes, and a bowl of coleslaw we’d pulled together from pre-shredded cabbage and raisins.