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We aren’t talking about the ghastly California jug wine that uses who-knows-what kinds of grapes grown in the arid Central Valley.

Mother came suspended in a pint jar murky with jug wine.

Many vines are left uncultivated, or their grapes are blended for jug wine.

In the old days, this might have been called a jug wine, in the best sense of the phrase.

When I moved to California for college 40 years ago, Grenache was a jug wine that, thanks to the Gallo brothers, was cheaper than East Bay MUD water.