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Among four kinds of noodles, the classic pancit canton looks exceptionally pretty, like large-scale confetti with peppery purple radish rounds, strips of long bean and julienned carrot, strewn with delicate cilantro sprouts.

The Japanese dish typically is served as a cone of chilled ramen noodles covered with julienned strips of several ingredients, including cucumber, ham, omelet, ginger and carrot.

Scoops of the creamy, crunchy bistro staple, elevated with smoked trout in the julienne mix, showed up in a trio of chive-flecked Belgian endive “boats,” a clever mode of transport.

Sparkling with lime in its dressing, the appetizer is garnished with julienne tart green apple, which Ratana adds to counter the neutrality of tofu.

I’m sure there are lush subtleties to be heard when she juliennes her voice into thick, synthetic chords via vocoder, but so much of her performance was lost in the mix.