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For the conference, Mr Low reinvented the popular laksa when he replaced the usual fishcake with patties made of minced cricket.

Dishes with "strong flavours", like laksa, were ideal because the delights of the original recipe distracted people from the crushed bugs.

“Think of it as cricket cake, like fish cake,” the chef said as he urged the man in the buffet line to try the steaming, spicy laksa – a coconut noodle broth – full of “textured cricket protein”.

"It's very controversial which laksa you go to," local Elly says.

In October, the mania kicks into another gear for the month-long laksa festival.