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Pang talks to activists and laborers, combing through Chinese media accounts, and making a convincing case that brands from H&M to AmericanGirl have reaped the benefits of cheap laogai, or forced labor.

This, in turn, increases the pressure on Chinese factories to deliver flexibly and cheaply, driving them to look for money-saving labor solutions, like those found in laogai prisons.

The Shanghai-born Wu, a U.S. citizen who died last April, was director the Laogai Research Foundation, a Washington-based human rights organization.

An irascible, strong-willed figure, Mr. Wu ended up spending much of that money on his organization, the Laogai Research Foundation, which had worked to expose China’s exploitative use of prison labor, especially those jailed for political crimes.

Wu’s work continued through his Laogai Research Foundation and museum in Washington.