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Five hours on, we found Pa Lungan, set like a mountain oasis amid verdant, dewy grasses and sparkling ponds.

Below, Pa Lungan seemed to float in an undulating sea of trees.

There are no roads to the village of Pa Lungan, just a mucky water buffalo trail beneath a tight-knit canopy — among the last standing highland jungles on the island of Borneo.

On our first trip to Bario, my husband and I lodged at De Plateau, a homestay near the forest leading to Pa Lungan.

Pa Lungan was idyllic as ever.