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Madeira comes in different levels of sweetness, but you want the sweetest, made with the malmsey grape.

At the high table Sir Ector sat with his knightly guests, who had come for the morrow’s hunting, smiling and nodding and drinking burgundy or sherries sack or malmsey wine.

Even the sweeter boal and malmsey wines are not cloying, their sugar balanced by acidity.

The lawyers in that golden age breakfasted on “brawn and malmsey,” and supped on “venison pasties and roasted hens!”

The wine of Santorin, the modern representative of the famous “malmsey,” is mainly exported to Russia.