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Her new store, Nneji, in Astoria, Queens, has a limited menu, for takeaway, featuring West African red stew with chicken, peppery yassa with chicken, egusi melon seed and spinach soup with salmon, and a spinach and okra dish.

For years, she has set beauty ideals, and plastic surgery requests, with her aquiline nose, large eyes, and “melon seed”-shaped oval face.

Melon seed is the most unusual of the lot, packed with vegetables.

Now, finally, he can not only stomach it, he has come to adore it for the depth of flavouring it brings to his favourite egusi or melon seed soup.

“When we feel you need the information, that’s when you get to know it. Don’t get any ideas about going over the fence, either. The top wire has enough power to spit you back like a melon seed. Here are the salt mountains.”