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“We like to destroy a restaurant — it’s our minhag,” said Molly Hoffman of Eagle Rock, who had just dined with the Kupchan family, using the Hebrew word for a Jewish custom not rooted in religious law.

Wise plays an outsize role in this story, striving throughout his career to unite American Jews under the banner of a reformed Judaism, even creating a prayer book called “Minhag America,” or “American Custom.”

So my family minhag: A fat “it’s no sin” hog!

“Minhag avotenu beyadenu,” says the Talmud—we follow the customs of our forefathers when it comes to traditions like this.

Minhag Yisrael, the custom of Israel, is what matters.”