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Far fewer restaurants are offering snacks of grilled mussels draped with velvety choron sauce, or starters of poached asparagus with sauce mousseline, items that have the ring of the familiar but are executed with flair.

Diners are encouraged to mix the enhancers — unite the elements of mousseline — then do as they please.

Elsewhere there were plays in transparency thanks to mousseline, chiffon and crepe-de-chine fabrics alongside see-through stockings.

Paris-Brest, praline-flavored mousseline piped inside a ring of pâte à choux, is a showstopping New Year’s dessert.

The dinner menu offers options ranging from salmon tartare to Braised Artichoke "Noir," served with a poached egg, potato mousseline and brioche croutons.