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Brian Mulier, co-head of the international trade and customs group at law firm Bird & Bird, said rules of origin ultimately meant that Russian crude oil refined in a country such as India would be classed as Indian oil.

Christian Friedlander’s backdrop‌ is slate-colo‌red, vaguely evoking the wall of an old building‌; John Torres’s lighting‌ is somb‌er; Pieter Mulier’s gendered costumes are mostly black and white.

Almost immediately the likes and requests started rolling in: from Marc Jacobs and the stylist Zerina Akers; Pieter Mulier, the Alaïa designer; and Emanuele Farneti, the former editor of Italian Vogue.

At a dinner held in the courtyard of the atelier after the show, Mr. Mulier said he had purposefully avoided the Alaïa archive, a famously rich history of the brand, because he didn’t want to be too intimidated.

It will probably come, as Mr. Mulier relaxes into his role, and is able to create his own vernacular, abstracting the essence of Alaïa into new forms.