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Ms Murcott said testing should be carried out in labour or shortly before.

"Those are trademark names for what are usually multiple cultivars: clementines before Christmas — usually fina sodea clementines or clemenules — then after Christmas the W Murcott afourer and tango. But mostly tango."

Anne Murcott, a professorial research associate at the food studies centre of Soas, suggests the avocado’s success owes quite a lot to clever marketing.

But this one, Mr. Murcott said, his voice breaking, Nancarrow called “Para Yoko.”

Four quartets of Alarm Will Sound members played Mr. Murcott’s version of Study No. 36 on Saturday afternoon; a line is played at four different speeds, somehow uniting for glissandos that flow without break through the four voices.