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Servers, dressed of their own choosing but almost uniformly in black, moved swiftly, surely, with one hand held behind their backs; fresh cutlery materialized resting atop snowy napery on a little silver tray.

There’s white napery on the tables, but the kitchen produces a home-style veal Parm for takeout.

The napery has an authentic, historical charm that’s right on trend.

The décor, including many of the chef’s paintings, is a contemporary take on midcentury modern, with white napery adding a gracious touch.

His New York debut, named for his grandmother, is in a somewhat unfinished industrial space with subdued lighting and tables draped in white napery.