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In braises, stews and ragouts, Gizzi Erskine, the food writer and chef at The Nitery in central London, would replace wine with a gastrique.

At her forthcoming Covent Garden restaurant, The Nitery, she will be offering steak tartare with bone marrow dripping on Marmite toast with cured egg yolk.

“When last caught in a nitery, the boys were a disappointment,” a Billboard reviewer wrote after a 1949 performance by Mr. Benson and Mann at the Palace.

Dorothy Donegan is a homely, unhappy-looking young woman whose earnestly inspired pianism last week was drawing throngs to Elmer's Cocktail Lounge, an obscure nitery in the heart of Chicago's Loop.

From the bandstand of the heavily upholstered Caf� Rouge in Manhattan's Statler Hotel, he beamed handsomely at the biggest crowds the nitery had ever seen, contentedly mooed the season's ballads in a domesticated baritone.