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Klay Young, who had been serving chicken paillard and arranging coffee cups at the lunch, was stunned.

Elena's schnitzel isn't really schnitzel – it's a paillard.

The executive chef Brian Huston and the chef de cuisine Jonathan Ho have devised an American menu with items like softly scrambled eggs and challah French toast for the morning, and for all-day dining, a Little Gem salad with grapefruit and avocado, white bean hummus, lemon chicken soup with orzo, cavatelli Bolognese, grilled branzino, and grilled chicken paillard.

His excellent chicken paillard from “21” is also on the menu.

For a cooking-but-only-just option, I usually go with chicken paillard with lemon-caper-butter pan sauce.