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The bride's hairdresser, Tane Tomoana, shared pictures of "paua and snapper" rolls enjoyed by guests.

“Crayfish was probably as close as you’ve got to it — but now kina has become a real delicacy, and paua is so hot everywhere.”

You find the usual woolly imported frozen prawns, but also many ingredients you simply cannot find elsewhere: pipi, a small native clam; paua, a dark, velvety abalone; native crayfish; kina, a kind of iodine-rich sea urchin; local oysters; green-shelled mussels the size of a business card.

“When I grew up, I don’t think anyone ever ate paua,” she said.

“Having done conservation projects for so many years, humans tend to react only when there’s a crisis, and the crisis point is often too late to save anything,” says the wildlife presenter Michaela Strachan, wearing a set of kiwi earrings cut from paua shells.