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He grew up diving for the abalone that South Africans call perlemoen — or, affectionately, “perly” — in the rocky coves.

Known locally as perlemoen, abalone plays an important ecological role.

Three of them pulled on tattered wet suits as the fourth kept watch; a few minutes later, they splashed into the frigid water with snorkels and began hunting for “perlemoen,” the Afrikaans term for abalone, derived from “mother-of-pearl,” for the shell’s inner sheen.

They were cooking and drying the delicacy, known locally as "perlemoen".

Abalone, or what we call perlemoen, was my favorite dish.