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From Weiner’s business, which he called Agents of Pie-Kill, came one of the most prominent pie-tossers in history: Aron “Pieman” Kay.

“He is dressed like a ’spectable pieman.

But even where the roofs have been painted over with drabber colors, there is a look to the exteriors—vaguely colonial, with cupolas that once hoisted metal weather vanes bearing the image of Simple Simon and the Pieman—that is the tipoff.

Whenever we got in the family Buick and headed out of Providence, I counted the miles until the iron pole with its hanging logo—Simple Simon, the Pieman, and Simon’s drooling dog—signalling the choices I would have to make between peppermint stick with hot fudge and marshmallow sauce in a sundae, or a double-scoop sugar cone with sprinkles.

Clinton Shabazz, for instance, used to sell the pies that he baked for his company, the Harlem PieMan, off a table on 125th Street.