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A more formal room may call for drapery with lavish pleats, but for the relaxed, traditional look Arnold usually prefers, he likes to keep it simple: “I’ll do a single pinch pleat just an inch or two from the top” — in other words, a stitched fold wherever he plans to add a drapery hook for hanging.

In the dumpling room, showcased at the restaurant's entrance, nearly two dozen white- jacketed, ball-capped dough boys press, fill, pinch, pleat and weigh their wares.