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But the dish I think about most is the espetada, the skewer of piri-piri chicken dangling from its own meat hook.

Not ready to surrender his piri-piri dreams, Germishuys workshopped his own sauces, apparently in his father’s garage, though you have to wonder where the truth ends and the legend begins here.

But you don’t eat at a piri-piri joint and order the bird grilled with a lemon-and-herb sauce.

For those with history in the D.C. region — by which I mean those who have lived here at least 15 years — you know that Galito’s is not the first South African piri-piri chain to test its menu in the Washington market.

The chile typically used in piri-piri sauce is the African bird’s eye, a potent pepper with a complicated history of migration, colonization and assimilation.