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“Never judge a book by its contents,” quipped a wag in a porkpie hat as we both regarded the cover of an aging paperback guide to vitamins, for sale on a Broadway sidewalk.

Some sly military-industrial complex humor creeps in as Oppenheimer, clad in his signature gray waistcoat and rumpled porkpie hat, leads this massively complicated undertaking at the surly behest of Col.

But Murphy did offer up that they worked hard to get Oppenheimer’s look right, from the narrow silhouette to the pipe and the porkpie hat.

“Looking like an American Joe College in sports clothes and a porkpie hat,” according to an Associated Press story.

That job proved a stroke of luck, because the restaurant’s cocktail menu was supervised by a man ever-dressed in retro sport shirts and porkpie hats who was known throughout the city as Brother Cleve.