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None of us cared that the caramel was burnt, or that the pastry cream gushed out of the profiteroles like raw egg yolks.

At a time when the typical dessert list is just three sweets long, Convivial pulls out the stops with nearly a dozen creations, including baked Alaska, profiteroles and chocolate souffle.

His selection of almost a dozen desserts — a Gallic roll call that includes creme brulee, chocolate mousse and profiteroles — would be astonishing even outside a pandemic.

Desserts — chocolate mousse, floating island, profiteroles — run to the classic.

It’s having your cake, eating it, and then insisting on more cake while you eye up the plate of profiteroles on the next table.