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But what made Hydra unique was not only its monopoly but also its distribution system, which revolved around stashing gear in out-of-the-way hiding spots like a coke-dealing Easter Bunny — or Puff-Puff.

The idea of two attempts was a joke, she told the BBC, but frying a record number of puff-puff - a soft round deep-fried dough like a donut - has now taken firm root in her mind.

But I would not encounter the show until 2021, at the height of the COVID-19 pandemic — an era of greasy-haired, ramen noodled, puff-puff pass kind of nights.

Likewise balls of fried dough, here called puff-puff, speak to all nations; these have a tinge of nutmeg and an unexpected density.

Among the dishes on Wey’s menu were dodo and ayamase, or fried plantains with green peppers and locust bean sauce; okra in a seafood broth; chicken wings with a red pepper-tomato sauce; jollof rice, stewed in a tomato sauce; and puff-puff, which he explained were akin to Ni­ger­ian doughnuts, for dessert.