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I don’t know if this is sacrilegious, but we serve gumbo with rice, and so I’ll often serve my ratatouille with rice.

Customers can make their own board of conservas, or order something off the menu, such as a tuna sandwich on a baguette stuffed with ratatouille and olive oil-packed tuna.

Try the mouthful with Piccolina’s ratatouille, each bite of which goes down like summer in Provence.

Here’s what else to expect: breezy service, icy oysters, crisp cod perched on ratatouille and sweetbreads that cut like custard and arrive with a forest of mushrooms.

The better choice is lamb, offered as a trio of dainty chops reclining on mashed potatoes and ratatouille, escorts found on multiple main courses.