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Like Ariari, one of Thursday Kitchen’s most popular dishes is a soft-shell crab—but rather than using red pepper-infused mayo, Hyun chooses to prepare the crab with wasabi remoulade, which in addition to mayo uses mustard, capers, and other herbs to enhance the flavor.

After dinner — a four-course event that on my night included tomato bisque, strawberry almond salad, salmon with remoulade, potatoes Dauphinois, roasted asparagus and New York cheesecake — the Elmores tell me how they’d arrived here.

After dinner — a four-course event that on my night included tomato bisque, strawberry almond salad, salmon with remoulade, potatoes Dauphinois, roasted asparagus and New York cheesecake — the Elmores told tell me how they’d arrived.

Try remoulade sauce, chipotle mayo or sriracha mayo as variations.

Then, instead of being paired with the usual bright red cocktail sauce, these shrimp are served with a horseradish-forward take on a classic French ��é���dzܱ������, which is both bracing and creamy.