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At Christmas, in particular, the magnetism of a rib roast is real, with about 33 million pounds sold during last year’s holiday season.

Smith is also offering other celebratory-feeling proteins for those not going for turkey this year, including leg of lamb, whole geese, standing rib roasts and something he calls the Royale.

And when feeding a crowd, there may be no simpler fond-based sauce than this standing rib roast's: just red wine, plum jam, butter, and pan drippings.

No matter how perfect the prime rib roast was, there's always leftovers of the juicy pink meat.

I wore a mask when I cooked the standing rib roast.