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A small sampling: The version popularized in pre-revolution Iran by Leila Forouhar, who has long since become a fixture of L.A.’s Persian community; the Finnish cover by Vicky Rosti, whom dedicated Eurovision fans may remember from the ‘80s; and the soundtrack to the 2019 Australian short film “Dolly’s Song” by Kaylene Whiskey, whose acclaimed art often juxtaposes Parton against Indigenous backdrops.

Hans’ stocks German honey and marmalade, with some French preserves ecumenically included, above shelves of mixes for potato dumplings, ��ö���پ�, spaetzle.

For a special breakfast, serve Swiss rosti with smoked salmon, sour cream and a poached egg.

Firsts among equals have included an earthy pork croquette glammed up with fleshy chanterelles and peach jam and a lacy zucchini rosti paired with charred squash brightened with diced red peppers, tomato and garlic.

The veal sausage, based on a recipe from the chef’s cousin, a Swiss butcher, arrives with shattering-crisp potato rosti, a plate so hot it continues to steam for several minutes.