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At camp, which combines Catskills rusticity with Greek architectural elements, Percy will find that he’s not alone among the illegitimate, half-abandoned children of gods.

The rusticity of handmade pasta dough helps explain some of these qualities, as does the skill of a seasoned pasta cook.

“It incorporates the same elements but without the rusticity,” McCormick said.

“The emperors are connecting themselves with rusticity and peasants.”

There are pockets of old-vine zinfandel vineyards producing impressive wines that combine rusticity — wild sagebrush and a dusty character that suggests warmth — with fine acidity and soft tannins.