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In recent years, plant-based eating has become more about Silicon Valley and stock prices than the Salinas Valley and salsify.

Butter-poached salsify, a pale, mild root vegetable that resembles a less-sweet parsnip, was dolled up to dazzling effect with sumac and dots of puréed fruit — tart grapefruit and sweet dates.

What to make of the word “mushroom,” trailed by “shiso,” “salsify” and “egg yolk fudge”? Make sure to try it, a server practically insists.

Even with the best storage conditions, it’s generally not worth sowing celery, parsley, parsnip or salsify seeds after they are more than a year old.

Then it was spinach, followed by kohlrabi, salsify, cucumbers, tomatoes, sauerkraut, etc., etc.