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In Western Maryland, for example, the recipes were simpler and farm-based, with foods such as salt-rising bread and bare steaks.

Pearl Haines, a mentor to Brown who died in 2016, baked salt-rising bread for 90 years, starting at the age of 5.

They put on salt-rising bread and butter, bowls of stewed pumpkin, pumpkin pies and dried berry pies and cookies, cheese and honey and pitchers of milk.

Roger had his first taste of salt-rising bread, which is made without yeast, and he voted it the best he ever ate.

If salt-rising bread does not fulfil the whole of this unpleasant description, it certainly does emphatically a part of it.