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She's also fond of rice and peas as a "canon recipe," plus saltfish and ackee.

I’ve sat in the homes of countless people who are barely getting by—like the Jamaican immigrant who served me ackee and saltfish in his family’s overstuffed room at an extended-stay motel outside Atlanta, but whose story I couldn’t use because he actually worked for my newspaper, delivering the papers.

Lime and habaneros make this saltfish buljol, a Caribbean cod dish, taste spiky and bright.

We stopped at Eits Cafe, where we gorged on tender saltfish fritters, warming pumpkin ginger soup and sticky, delicious, caramelized-plantain crepes while looking out across the misty mountains, surrounded by the buzz of swallowtail hummingbirds.

"The ackee and saltfish are piled onto a fried dumpling, which has been cut down the middle. Ripe plantains were deep fried, producing a wicked crispy exterior and a super ripe, super sweet interior. While the mac and cheese was not reminiscent of a Jamaican macaroni pie,it was out of this world. It featured little bits of saltfish that acted as a flavor-booster like anchovies do in Caesar dressing. Creamy and delicious."