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One of the first drinks I had was a whisky and lemonade, but I would drink beer, Baileys, sambuca and vodka.

At the end of the evening, Veca, who has taken over the bar, offered small glasses of sambuca to those who weren’t quite ready to call it a night.

Renowned grappa producer Poli Distillerie stopped making its smooth, elegant sambuca, which tastes like fresh fennel, in the 1980s, but recently brought it back due to the surge in demand.

You can see evidence today of the popularity of anise spirits in Lebanese arak, Turkish raki, Greek ouzo, Italian sambuca and, of course, the French pastis.

State of Grace, by Miranda Sawyer After a bottle of wine and several shots of sambuca, Sawyer, who delivers a typically brilliant profile, gets much more than she bargained for from Jones.