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There is enough sugar – a certain understatement here – to counter any potential bitterness of the Guinness, and although I’ve eaten versions of this made up like a chocolate sandwich cake, stuffed and slathered in a rich chocolate icing, I think that can take away from its dark majesty.

Bill Haverchuck, in one of the show’s most poignant sequences, fixes a dinner of a grilled cheese sandwich, cake, and a glass of milk, and sits in front of the TV.

Makes enough to fill and cover one 20cm sandwich cake.

In the first episode, they were challenged to make a sandwich cake, an angel food cake and a chocolate cake.

At first they were a novel and welcome delicacy, but when we had had them at every meal for weeks—in jam, jelly, tart, pudding, and pie, with cream, with custard, with bread and butter, and inlaid in sandwich cake—we were so thoroughly sickened of them that neither of us have wanted to look at a quince since.