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Or, you could leave the skin on the chicken parts, crisp them in a pan and serve them, vegetables and all, with a sauceboat of homemade hollandaise.

If a patron ordered a sauceboat, he would get a fine one—perhaps a month after it had been promised.

A platter of mixed greens, cucumbers, red onion, grated carrot and sliced tomatoes is paired with a sauceboat of the delicious house vinaigrette, made thick with puréed celery, carrot and onion.

Two of his more beautiful appetizers are an elegant version of the Provençal vegetable soup, pistou, served with a sauceboat of shimmering pesto, and charred octopus splashed with sherry vinaigrette.

He was mopping the last of the chocolate sauce from the sauceboat with a piece of paratha.