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On the side of the next street a man prepared a fire to make shashlik while a woman sat nearby chatting.

What she wanted was her own business, a storefront where she hoped to sell shashlik, a version of shish kebab.

Many of the world’s great skewered dishes call for a pungent marinade, like lemongrass-laced Thai satay or oniony Russian shashlik.

The chicken thigh shashlik is also a must-try.

In summer, shashlik might be bundled together with pickles and salads of seasonal vegetables dressed with unrefined sunflower oil and dominated by “crazy amounts of chopped parsley, dill and coriander, so herbs are the bulk of the salad”.