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“I also will promise you, that when I am well enough to perform, that is what I’ll be doing in the land of She-Crab soup.”

Another notable home belongs to Alexander Smalls, whose career path has taken him from opera singer to restaurateur to an ambassador for Lowcountry cuisine, with its classic dishes such as frogmore stew and she-crab soup.

The current version of one of Lewis’s most talked-about specialties, a Charlestonian she-crab soup, doesn’t have the tiny dots of red crab roe demanded by old Carolina cooks.

It meant that I had made enough money that she could splurge and make she-crab soup for supper.

She wasn’t an islander, but she could make the best she-crab soup on Rass.