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For the meat, Mr. Lomonaco recommends shell steak.

Not, I’m afraid, the Hwa Yuan dry-aged shell steak, which got impressive flavor from basting with marrow but was knotted with tough membranes when I tried it.

Still, when I reviewed the Santa Monica restaurant in 1997, I regarded it as a nostalgia play, a place to stop by for shad roe in season, a nice Cabernet, and excellent aged shell steak with fries.

An aged shell steak arrived medium-rare to order, but chewy.

I was not surprised when he singled out the grilled shell steak, a delicious, tender, juicy piece of meat.