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Crispy, crunchy fried shiitake mushrooms are piled high on a bed of shallot chilli butter, which sits on a crunch roll.

Another chimes in: “I would also suggest King Oyster mushrooms as the walking feet because they are a little longer and more ‘feet-like’ to me than shiitake.”

White button mushrooms prefer a 50/50 mix of compost and well-rotted manure, oyster mushrooms do well in oat or wheat straw, and shiitakes like sawdust.

The same braise is used for the semi-firm tofu, but with one important addition: dried shiitake mushrooms, which give the fried bean curds a kind of umami immediacy.

The gems among the appetizers include steamed dumplings packed with ground pork, crab and shrimp, a flavor profile enhanced with shiitakes in the mix and a splash of sweet soy sauce.