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“Even patches of seawater along the shoreline froze,” Hackford recalls, “and it fit Dolores perfectly: a woman totally isolated at the end of the earth, savagely weathered and tough as nails.”

Conservationists pushed to preserve Point Reyes, worried it would be recast as yet another coastal resort, with hotels and arcades marching along the shoreline.

They both desperately called her name and urged her to return to the shoreline but their pleas were ignored.

They put on a good show for their British visitors - and told some grim stories of shoreline violence and rescues - but the real action is beyond the parade ground.

After our big breakfast, maybe a boat ride or a walk along the shoreline?