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Nelson’s is great for ceviche and a skirt steak sandwich in a relaxed atmosphere with a view of the ocean, while Mar’sel is oysters and Dover sole.

If you can nail the cook on the skirt steak, caramelize the onions to perfection and do a flawless garlic aioli, you have a sandwich that you’ll crave for the rest of your life.

For our weeknight version from our book “Milk Street Tuesday Nights,” which limits recipes to about 45 minutes or less, we streamline the ingredient list and use quick-cooking skirt steak.

It goes particularly well in a sweet-savory marinade for grilled skirt steak, amplifying the meat’s beefiness and balancing the sugars in Asian chili-garlic sauce.

This simple grilled steak uses cuts of skirt steak.