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Toppings can include bean sprouts, barbecued pork, boiled or raw eggs, seaweed, fermented bamboo shoots called “menma,” chopped green onions, cooked cabbage, snow peas or corn.

"The fact is there are lots of jobs, the problem is whether you are willing to lower your expectations," she adds, before turning to negotiate a price for snow pea shoots.

The other object is a stack of plastic sachets containing seeds: buckwheat, snow pea, spinach, cabbage, pumpkin and corn.

Territorial Seeds’ catalog lists Frieda Worlds snow pea, noting its use in fall.

Add the snow peas and chilies, then cook, stirring, until the chicken is almost opaque throughout.