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We gawked at the sea creatures — lobsters, soft-shell turtles, wriggling live eels — while she filled the cart.

A couple models are sufficiently protective that the wearers don’t have to practice with Guardian Caps, the soft-shell covers that fit over standard helmets to provide additional cushion and protection.

Like Ariari, one of Thursday Kitchen’s most popular dishes is a soft-shell crab—but rather than using red pepper-infused mayo, Hyun chooses to prepare the crab with wasabi remoulade, which in addition to mayo uses mustard, capers, and other herbs to enhance the flavor.

He compared the texture of a cicada to that of a tiny soft-shell crab — a gentle crunch that yields soft meat — and described a mild woody flavor that develops during the years the insects spend growing very slowly underground, feeding on sap from tree roots.

Other states along the Atlantic coast have also experienced declines in both quahogs as well as also oysters, bay scallops and soft-shell clams, according to McManus.