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We make roughly five seasonal plated desserts with two composed sorbets and ice creams.

For years, I've argued there may be no better summer dessert — outside of the realm of ice creams, sorbets and other frozen delights — than crisps and crumbles of all iterations.

Mr Pirathapan cooked a winning menu of a seafood starter, a spiced venison main and a dessert of white chocolate and cardamom and saffron cremeux with a lime and chili sorbet.

He then capitalized on this, reinventing those familiar flavors at Ruse with a watermelon sorbet with lime curd and crunchy chocolate pearls.

“Those guys usually go for coffee flavors. But I think he’s a vegan. He won’t want any milk. So...raspberry sorbet.”