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He had already spent a couple of miserable years in Canada, serving dry-aged rib-eyes, mezze platters and souvlakia at an all-purpose Greek restaurant in Saskatoon.

Some people will bring him food, including a Greek family that dropped off chicken souvlakia on Christmas Eve.

And, of course, it had grills where they cooked steaks, chops and souvlakia.

In their tidy brick apartment complex outside Düsseldorf, Mr. Kakoyiannis and Ms. Rapti settled down after the engineering club meeting and made a Sunday lunch of traditional Greek souvlakia, pita and garlicky tzatziki.

To the right of the rambling shop is an open taverna kitchen where lamb souvlakia or fresh calamari sizzle between flames on the large grill.