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But he’ll also slip in Italian tastes with lobster spaghettini and a risotto.

GILLIGAN’S A beachy new outdoor oasis in SoHo is dishing up lobster rolls, shrimp spaghettini and white clam pizza, to be washed down with frozen watermelon margaritas: Soho Grand Hotel, 310 West Broadway, 212-965-3271, gilligansnyc.com.

You do find the occasional Western touch here — spaghettini in a course of Monterey Bay abalone with pickled cod roe where a chef in Osaki might use soba.

If you should want to use fresh homemade fettuccine instead of spaghettini, bear in mind that it will cook much faster than boxed, dry, factory-made pasta.

She is not strictly tied to tradition — she may serve foie gras with eel, or spaghettini with abalone, pickled cod roe and truffles where a Kyoto chef would serve soba.