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Jerusalem artichoke, or sunchoke, a perennial sunflower, will try to outdo even the tall coneflower in height and inclination to spread.

Go vegan with a beet, sunchoke or artichoke salad.

In the open kitchen of this seasonally driven eatery, one chef might be topping off a crispy sunchoke hash with trout roe while another stokes the wood to roast the meat.

One current tasting menu features a voluptuously smooth sunchoke velouté, aromatic with fresh thyme, under a musky patch of grated black truffle; it wouldn’t be out of place at Gabriel Kreuther Restaurant.

Breakfast items like cacio e pepe scones are followed by an array of creative Italian sandwiches and salads like a sunchoke Caesar.