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Carefully drop the tagliarini into the boiling water and cook for 1 ½ minutes, then use tongs to lift the pasta into the sauce.

I always say simple is best, so if you have a pasta machine then making tagliarini, tagliatelle or pappardelle is the simplest pasta shape.

Lines form outside Padella, which does not accept reservations, for its tagliarini with slow-cooked tomato sauce or pappardelle with eight-hour Dexter beef shin ragù.

Service is a blur of tasting tagliarini, poaching trout and eating warm cake as it comes out of the oven.

Come to think of it, a lot of dishes serve as role models: robust minestrone, soup enough for two; tagliarini adorned with a garden of vegetables and sweet little clams; veal chop pounded to plate-size, breaded and fried; and the divine, not-too-sweet tiramisu.