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Yongi, Chojuro, Ichiban and Yoinashi each taste like butterscotch, ranging from the subtle toffee-apple notes of the Yoinashi to the intense Butter Rum Lifesaver flavor of the Chojuro.

Kelly Moran chatted to Debby Crombie by the toffee-apple stall.

Best party The reception for Grant Gee’s Innocence of Memories – a chance to sample toffee-apple figs, truffles à go-go, and make light conversation with the Turkish Nobel prizewinner Orhan Pamuk, who inspired the film.

Two desserts made by the pastry chef, Luis Zambrano, stood out: the brown-sugar toffee-apple cake, with a crunchy top yielding to the soft sweet-tart Honeycrisps inside, and the fried pear beignets with an exquisite hot ginger-honey wine sauce.

Butternut squash soup, tomato tart in puff pastry, cucumber , watermelon salad, roast beet salad, Seckel pear salad; steak frites, short ribs, duck confit, scallops over white beans; toffee-apple cake, pear beignets, cheese plate.