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For a reminder of vanished summer, there is a roster of frothy fruit shakes, including one of tomate de arból, or tree tomato, native to Ecuador.

Camila’s complex version stuffed with lamb shank marinated in red wine includes pomegranate seeds, cinnamon, and walnuts, while Marcos’s patriotic tribute showcases Brazil nuts with South American tamarillo, or tree tomato.

Raw caiman, it turns out, is mild and slightly chewy, somewhere between whale and whitefish; it served mostly to connect the other ingredients, which included tree tomato, yogurt, arugula, and smoked red pepper.

If only I had read the accompanying instructions before biting through the bitter skin of a tree tomato.

The original 12 — the tree tomato, poha, loquat and Rangpur lime among them — have since been joined by countless other plants.